Jul
20
2003

Last Day In Bratislava

We made it to the castle today. It is an interesting mix of the history of Bratislava. The fortress walls and buildings inside them show the scars of constant occupation and renovation from 900AD. The gate you enter the castle ground by has the reminents of an old draw bridge right beside a machine gun turret from WWII. The view of Bratislava from the castle is a shocking reminder of the Communist industry past of Slovakia. There are miles and miles of concrete, rectangular utilitarian apartment blocks for as far as you can see, then the smoke stacks of factories rising on the horizon behind them.

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Jul
19
2003

Finally Made It To Bratislava

A funny thing happened on the way to Bratislava… we ended up on the wrong damn train (it seems to be our fate to take the wrong transportation in Eastern Europe). It’s not really that we’re incredibly dense – the train we got on did say “Bratislava” on it, but unlike every other country in the world, Slovakia puts the origin instead of the destination on the train. So – we ended up seeing almost all of Slovakia in one day – any further east and we would have been denied entry into the Ukraine. Interesting fact – it only takes 7 hours to travel from one end of Slovakia to the other (I can only make it half way to my parent’s house in that time!). That’s the last time we will take a second class train in Eastern Europe (A six person cabin with 10 people & a dog in it.). The last journey we had like that was in China with a chicken on my lap – but you do get close to the locals!

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Jul
17
2003

Last Day In Stary Smokovec

We had a great climb today – up & down 1005 m. (they don’t measure things in distances when you climb mountains – just elevations). We started in a valley full of wild flowers and glacial streams, and gradually found ourselves above the tree line with waterfalls cascading down the mountains all around us. Interestingly, we were actually hiking on what they consider to be a cross country ski trail around here – it would kill anyone at home to even contemplate skiing it. It was essentially an old Roman road made out of boulders that had cleaved off the mountain. It was 8 ft wide at its widest, and 2 ft wide at its narrowest, and followed the contours of the mountain, with death-assured drops on the valley side. The flower filled valley reminded me of my grandma’s kitchen – it smelled like herbal teas, brewer’s yeast, various herbal remedies and a bit of must.

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