Hiked Cow Valley Today
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We`ve had another great couple of days of hiking. Yesterday was the “hike & sing” to Kreither Alm (1492m), where we forged our own route through the forest (our guide, Martin likes to get lost to see if he can find his way again – especially on routes that he knows very well – we like it too). The strangest things about walking through the woods here are:
1) there are cows with horns and cow bells on that graze in the middle of the forest – you may come across one at any time, or just hear them off in the distance,
2) there are no biting bugs! – Have I mentioned that before? Regardless, it merits repeating when you´re used to being eaten alive unless you move fast.
3) There is no undergrowth in the forest – you can see for miles through the trees.
4) The cows are friendly, and like to be patted like dogs. (However they do not appreciate being licked by other cows, as we witnessed in one particularly funny incident – you had to be there.)
The “sing” part of yesterday´s hike consisted of two old guys with a guitar and an accordion getting progressively more plowed on schnapps and yodeling out classic Tyrolean folk tunes. The kitchen staff at the hut join in with anything that could be interpreted as a musical instrument (bells on a stick, pots & pans, etc…) It’s good fun, and the weather held for us.
Today’s hike was a new one for us – we’ve done many of the hikes on the program here. It took us up Kühtal Valley “Cow Valley” to a farming and ski resort town, where we hiked up pretty barren hills to 5 mountain lakes, two of which were dammed for hydro electric power. The hills were so barren because the area is know for winter avalanches and summer rock slides, and what hadn’t been cleared by natural causes had been cleared for the purpose of downhill skiing. The hut we had lunch at was called Drei-Seen Hütte (2400m).
It was a banner day for Alpine sighting. We finally got to see the much talked about but elusive marmot – essentially a huge mountain rat that whistles like a gopher. Of course, when you here a huge mountain rat whistle in the valley between two huge mountains, the reverberation makes it sound like a train coming through – it’s enough to cause some serious confusion until you spot them running on the rocks. The marmot is such a big deal in terms of wild life here, because it is almost the only wild life left around here. Almost all the other animals you see in the mountains are domestic. The reason for this is that during WWII, the people of the area were starving, and they hunted the area out, never to be replenished. It’s amazing what some of the unanticipated repercussions of war are. We also saw horses up in the mountains today – they are very unusual around here, and are a particularly stout breed. They look like they’ve adapted to centuries of cold, harsh climate, and strong winds in the mountains. They look stunted but tough in the same way that trees on the North shore of Lake Superior do. Incidentally, they are very friendly – a colt and its mother came right up to George and some of our friends to nuzzle them, and get a pat.
As usual, we’re off hiking again tomorrow – another new route, so it should be an adventure. Hopefully I’ll have enough energy left for my swim at the end of the day. We’ve practically moved into the community here – I have a ten day pool pass, and am considered a regular by the cleaning ladies who stand at the pool lobby windows and take bets on whether or not the guys who swim beside me will be able to pass me. The ladies chain smoke cigarrettes the whole time. Everyday when I leave, the lady who wins smiles and laughs at me, as she waves her winnings at me when I leave. George says I’ll have to get in on the betting… (it may pay for a few nights in the hotel!)
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